Gear 101: FAQs About Tennis Gear From Beginners

If you wanted to choose a sport that requires minimal equipment, you could try, say, sumo wrestling. But tennis is probably a little more fun. So don’t let the equipment factor prevent you from starting a sport that you can enjoy for a lifetime. Here’s all you need to know to get geared up.

Who makes and sells tennis racquets?
There are nine major brands: Babolat, Donnay, Dunlop, Head, Prince, Tecnifibre, Volkl/Boris Becker, Wilson and Yonex.

Where can I buy a racquet?
There are lots of choices. You can go to the pro shops at tennis clubs or mom-and-pop tennis “specialty” stores. You can also try sporting goods chain stores and even big retailers like WalMart and Kmart, which sell a limited number of racquets. You could also buy your racquet from online retailers such as Golfsmith, Holabird Sport Tennis, Midwest Sports, Tennis Express and Tennis Warehouse.

What’s the difference?
Generally, pro shops, tennis-specific stores and online retailers specialize in selling premium racquets, the “new-car models” that have the latest technologies, and are usually more expensive. The chains mostly offer less expensive racquets with older or even outdated technologies.

I’m a beginner. Why should I care about high-tech racquets?
Because most new technologies are designed to help players get better sooner.

How much should I expect to pay?
There’s a huge price range: You can get a stripped-down “starter” racquet at Wal-Mart for around $30, while a top-of-the-line premium frame, bought either online or at a pro or specialty shop, could cost as much as $300. But you should be able to find a good current-generation premium racquet for around $150.

Is it better to buy from a store than to buy online?
There are tradeoffs to each. Employees of specialty tennis stores are the most knowledgeable and can best help you match up the racquet to your level and style of play, but these retailers usually have small selections compared to the online retailers, and you could end up paying a little more than if you bought the same racquet online. Chain sporting goods store employees usually know little about tennis racquets.

In what ways do racquets vary? 
In weight, head size and stiffness of the frames (or beams). Racquets with large head sizes and thick and stiff frames that are relatively light in weight (with most of the weight distributed towards the head of the racquet) are generally designed to give the player more power. Longer length can also add power, but a lot of players find long racquets too cumbersome. Smaller heads, thin flexible beams and heavier weights (distributed more towards the handle) are for better control.

What about comfort?
Just about all modern premium racquets have built-in shock absorbing technologies, which protect your arm and dampen the vibration from the collision between the strings and the ball.

What are the kinds of tennis racquets out there today?
The choices are mind-numbing; there are almost as many different racquets to choose from as there are car brands and models. But most racquets fit into one of three basic categories:

1. Game-Improvement Racquets are usually for beginners, players with lower-level skills, and players with less mobility. These players generally have short, slow or tentative swings, and take the racquet back no more than six inches when they prepare to strike the ball. They need the racquet to provide most of the power, and the game-improvement frames provide the boost their users don’t have. How do these frames accomplish that? They have oversized prime hitting areas, or “sweet spots,” of 102-115 square inches, plus wide stiff beams measuring 27 millimeters or more at the sides, and “head heavy” balances (which means most of the weight is in the upper portion toward the head like a hammer). But these racquets’ overall weights are light (under 10.5 ounces) to counter the head-heaviness which would make them sluggish in motion.

2. Player Racquets are for accomplished hitters with long fluid swings; they are used by most tour pros. Contrary to popular opinion, these racquets have not turned professional tennis into a power game; in fact, they have very little inherent power. These are really control-oriented racquets. Most of the power comes from the player’s ability to whip the racquet through the air at high acceleration. These racquets have narrow (17-21 millimeter) beams which flex on ball contact for touch and control, small hitting areas (85-97 square inches) which help keep the racquet stable, and hefty pick-up weights (11.6-13 ounces), which are tempered by their head-light balances.

3. Hybrid Racquets have some of the characteristics of game-improvement racquets and some of player racquets, with head sizes and beams in between the two and balances that are slightly head-light. They’re primarily for intermediate players with medium swings, but with their best-of-both-worlds appeal they’re also used by some advanced players, including Rafael Nadal and Maria Sharapova.

Can I test out a racquet out before I buy?
Almost all pro and tennis specialty shops will loan you at least one demo—and usually more. The shops sometimes charge a nominal fee which can be applied to a purchase. At least four online retailers—Holabird, Midwest Sports, Tennis Express and Tennis Warehouse—will send you free racquets to try, but you pay the two-way shipping costs.

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What size grip should I use?
**The most popular current grip sizes are 4¼ inches for women and 4 3/8 inches for men. But you can do this self-test to get an idea: Hold your tennis racquet in your playing hand and try to fit the index finger of your other hand between the palm and fingertips of the hand holding the racquet. An ideal grip size leaves just enough room for your finger to fit, but nothing extra. Keep in mind that it’s best to err on the small side, as you can always build it up by applying an overgrip, but you can’t shave down a too-thick grip.

What different types of grips are there?
There are two, leather and synthetic. Leather grips are rigid, and some players, mostly old-schoolers, say those grips help them “feel” where the ball is on the strings. Synthetic grips are cushioned and often have a series of pinholes that absorb sweat, plus textured surfaces with raised stitches that creates grooves to fit the hand.

Does string matter? 
As much and probably more than the racquet, given that it’s the strings that make the contact with the ball. When it comes to string types, there are a lot of choices. Natural gut is the Lexus of strings for its combination of power, control and comfort. The downside is that gut is also the most expensive and breakable string. Multi-filament string (strands of nylon and other synthetic materials are twisted and wrapped together) is the best alternative to gut because it’s less expensive and more durable. Mono-filaments (a single strand of nylon) are the most durable, but lack the comfort, power and control of gut and multi-filaments. Polyester strings best grab the ball, allowing players with big swings to impart big spin, but they can be hard on the arm.

What are some of the better string brands?
For gut: Babolat Natural Gut and Pacific Classic Natural Gut
Multi-filament: Gamma Live Wire and Tecnifibre X-One Biphase
Monofilament: Prince Tour
Polyester: Luxilon Big Banger Alu

Where should I get my racquet strung?
Most pro and tennis specialty shops having stringing services, but we recommend choosing one that is certified by the United States Racquet Stringers Association. To find one in your area, go to racquettech.com.

How much should I expect to pay?
It ranges from $20-$40 for most strings plus labor, but getting your racquet strung with gut can run you as high as $60.

What is string tension?
It’s how tight or loosely the racquet is strung. Manufacturers always put a recommended range on the frames, usually somewhere between 50 and 60 pounds. A lower tension will give you more comfort and power; the strings almost serve as a trampoline for the ball. Higher tensions will provide less power but more control. Also, strings with higher tensions tend to break sooner.

Is there a way to prolong the life of my strings?
Yes. Strings are measured in gauges, from thickest to thinnest on a scale between 15 and 18. The thinner the gauge, the more touch and control, but the tradeoff is durability. The industry norm is the 16-gauge string. Choose that or thicker to prolong the life of the strings in your racquet.

How often should I expect to restring my racquet?
Strings, like milk, go bad after a while. They lose their tension and resiliency over time. The general rule is to restring as many times in a year as you play in a week. So, if you are a twice-a-week player, you need to restring about once every six months.

Does it matter which ball I use?
Just make sure your tennis balls are pressurized (they’ll make that pshhhhh sound when you open the can). There’s a slight difference in ball types. “Extra duty” balls are made for hard courts (because the abrasive surface wears away the felt quickly), and “regular duty” balls are better on clay courts, because they have less of a tendency to “fluff up.”

Is there any difference between the different brands?
There can’t be much, because the game’s governing bodies put strict standards on tennis balls, but some players claim they can tell the difference between a Wilson and Penn ball. Those are the two overwhelmingly favored brands.